Kyoto is absolutely gorgeous at this time of year. Its streets are lined with beautiful cherry blossoms in full bloom. It even smells better! We only spent a day (last Thursday) there; it only takes us an hour and a half by the express train.
We'd prepared to do as much walking as possible - armed with a walking map of eastern Kyoto and our hiking shoes, and even some sandwiches.
Our journey included a visit to a few temples and shrines, a pagoda and Maruyama Park.
The temples and shrines were quite old, with gorgeous little zen gardens and interesting statues. The pagoda was visible from the main street - quite an unexpected sight!
We walked up a steep hill through a narrow winding road lined with souvenir shops and various food stalls and restaurants. All were at tourists' prices, of course! I dragged poor Rich through most of these little shops, being quite the window-shopper I am. There was even a shop just selling chopsticks, with prices as high as 10,000yen a pair!!! A $100 for bloody chopsticks, go figure...wonder if it can feed you by itself too.
This trek to Yasaka Pagoda was bustling with tourists, all cramming into the narrow road to shop and eat. It did become quite a chore walking so slowly.
The pagoda was interesting with its wooden architecture and 5-tiered roof. Although, I must say the one in Nara is more impressive, on more expansive grounds surrounded by more trees than tourist shops.
We squeezed out of this crazy atmosphere into a calmer park called Ryozen Kwannon. After paying 200yen each, we entered into a large, much quieter area. This is where an absolutely massive statue of the Kwannon stands, at the other end of the park. It was built as a tribute to all the 48,000 foreign soldiers who were killed on Japanese territory during WWII. It measures 24m high and weighs about 500 tonnes (of concrete and steel-rod frame-work). Beneath this large statue is a shrine which holds memorial tablets of 2 million Japanese who also dies in the war. Memorial services are conducted four times each day.
Maruyama-koen was the next stop. Well, it really became more than a stop. Firstly, we were just overwhelmed by the numerous cherry blossoms. It was really a sight to see! Secondly, we were also awestruck at how many people had taken over the park with their picnic rugs (really they were just large blue or green tarps!!) and their boxes/bags of food and alcohol. At this stage, most of the tarps didn't have many picnickers on them. Apparently, hanami (cherry blossom viewing party) revellers come early and save precious park grounds for either their friends or even co-workers. I've even been told that some big companies send their little shit-kickers along to sit at a park all day, hail or shine! And thirdly, the park also had plenty of food stalls and outdoor dining areas set up. Much like a massive carnival!
We hadn't really expected how crazy or intense hanami time could get. The poor blossoms! Having to put up with loads of Japanese and tourists drinking heavily. Well, it didn't take us long to join in!
We sat ourselves down at an outdoor restaurant and ordered beers and wedges. It was a sublime spring day, warm and sunny. A great time to enjoy beers!
We were also very lucky to be on the receiving end of Japanese generosity. An elderly couple sitting at the next table had taken an interest in us, probably because I had spoken in English and very broken Japanese to the waiter! The kind lady gestured to the menu whilst her husband called a waiter. We thought she had wanted to know what our plate of wedges was. But the waiter said that she wanted to order us some food, "as a present". We couldn't refuse (literally, we were lost for words in Japanese!) and ordered two bowls of udon. It was a truly humbling experience.
After sitting for a little while longer in the gorgeous sun, we reluctantly dragged ourselves away from the mayhem and went towards Gion, the city centre.
Here, I must mention that there were a few geishas wondering around, attracting lots of attention. People gather around them and take photos. It was quite hilarious when we saw one geisha start texting and chatting on her mobile! Maybe she was giving her geisha mates a heads up on her location!
Gion was even busier. There seems to be an endless stream of buses dropping off tourists around Kyoto. Shopping is quite expensive. But still it was interesting to see what was being offered. Mostly Japanese sweets, wrapped exquisitely perfectly in little parcels and then boxed, to crafts to kimonos and all its accessories.
We paid a quick visit to Heian Shrine and its amazing torii gate. Traditionally, Shinto shrines have a torii gate marking its entrance. Passing through a torii gate is an act of cleansing and purification before entering the shrine.
We couldn't go back to Osaka without first returning to Maruyama park to see how the parties were going. It was certainly still very much alive at 9pm! And even more rowdy as more and more Japanese were getting quite intoxicated.
What a day! Beautiful cherry blossoms to amazing shrines to lots of stumbling Japanese people! Hanami, we look forward to the next one.
